At a very basic level for washing you need two buckets, ideally at least twenty litres in capacity, equipped with grids in the base to trap dirt which can be purchased separately. Even an entry-level pressure washer will make your life easier, and a snow foam lance should be high on your buy list. A noodle wash mitt has been shown to be the safest contact wash media you can use, and helpfully they can be had for less than five pounds, though wool and microfibre alternatives are preferred by some. A set of brushes can be really useful for the wash process, ideally circular and soft, there are plenty on the market specifically for car care.
Though conventionally a chamois leather has been favoured to dry vehicles, it is so much safer to use a plush microfibre towel. For your wheels there are a plethora of brushes available, but wool or microfibre options with long handles make for kinder cleaning.
Chemical wise, an automotive shampoo is a must – don’t be tempted to grab your dish soap! If you have procured a snow foam lance, it would be sensible to purchase some snow foam to go with it, though shampoo will work through the lance too, and many prefer to use a citrus pre-wash via pump-sprayer in lieu. A dedicated wheel cleaner isn’t essential but is a worthy investment, while a quick detailer or rinse aid can speed up the drying process.
Decontamination is traditionally split into three stages, each of which requires specific chemicals. For tar removal it will come as no surprise that you will need a tar remover, and the same goes for fallout removal, though these are often referred to as ‘iron removers’. To remove bonded contamination you are best off using a clay media, be this a clay bar, mitt, pad, cloth – whichever you chose will require a good clay lubricant, though in extremes you can use a slightly diluted shampoo. Equipment-wise, brushes and microfibre cloths are the stalwart, and nitrile gloves are a must as we are starting to use rather more aggressive chemicals than simple detergents.
When it comes to paint protection you have many options ranging from a traditional organic wax through to cutting-edge ceramic coatings. Waxes and polymer sealants are generally easy to apply, tolerant of environmental conditions, and can last from a matter of weeks to over a year. More advanced polymer and ‘ceramic’ coatings require more preparation, specific environmental conditions, and often considerably more patience, making them less appealing for a commercial installer as the time taken can seem counterproductive and costly compared to the amount they can charge the service out at. In return, they can offer a greater level of protection for a longer period of time. In terms of equipment, clean and soft microfibres are pretty much all you need this side of top end ceramics.
As alluded to earlier however, it’s better to grow your tools and equipment gradually as you learn more about the art of detailing and build the skills required to do it properly. When it comes to building the skillset, you need a combination of formal training, hands-on experience, and a solid grasp of the theory. There are training centres, such as UK Detailing Academy in Gloucestershire who will be at Automechanika this year, while there are also various publications such as the PRO Detailer Magazine and Hand Wash Only book that will prove useful. For those wanting to go professional, the UK has it’s own trade association – PVD – which cater for all independent car care professionals but requires both a theory and practical assessment to gain entry.
To learn more, pop along to the Automechanika show at the Birmingham NEC this June, where alongside the UK Detailing Academy, there will be a number of manufacturers and live demonstrations. Book your free ticket here.
Bert Youell – PRO Detailer Magazine